🔧 Ticket #6

Neutral to the left side I got 120 volts from neutral to the right side I got less than a volt

This is from the ped est al of that sit That pedestal is unsafe as‑is: you’ve got a 30‑amp, 240‑volt style receptacle and cord on what your guest expects to be 120‑volt RV power, and the plug itself is beat‑up enough to cause bad contact and weird voltage readings. ## What you’re looking at - The receptacle in the third photo is a locking, 3‑blade configuration that is typically for 30‑amp, 240‑volt service (L6‑30 style) or similar, not a TT‑30R 120‑volt RV outlet. The two angled blades are the two hots and the round is ground; there is no neutral in that pattern. - The customer’s cord cap in the first photo is heavily worn, with rounded, discolored blades and a stressed body, which can give you intermittent contact and “ghost” volt readings under light or no load. - The breaker feeding it is a single 30‑amp pole, so the way this is wired now is very likely non‑standard for RV use and may be miswired internally at the receptacle. ## Why the volt readings are weird - If you’re measuring from the “neutral” slot (which doesn’t actually exist on that receptacle pattern) to one blade and seeing ~120 V, and near 0 V to the other, you’re most likely picking up one hot leg and one leg that is either tied incorrectly or floating. - Because there is no true neutral in that configuration, any adapter or “dogbone” trying to turn it into 120 V RV power is depending on how someone wired that receptacle, which in this case sounds wrong. That’s exactly the situation where customers see lights brightening/dimming or “spikes,” especially when loads cycle on and off. ## What I’d do right now - Take that pedestal completely out of service for RV shore power. Tag/lock it so no one can plug into it until you rework it. - Move the guest to a site with a proper TT‑30R (single hot, neutral, ground) that meters: hot‑to‑neutral ~120 V, hot‑to‑ground ~120 V, neutral‑to‑ground near 0 V under load. - Replace the customer’s damaged cord cap (or strongly recommend they do). Even on a good pedestal, that plug is a future heat and failure point. ## How to correct the pedestal When you’re ready to fix that site (or convert it properly): - Kill power at the supplying breaker panel and verify with a non‑contact tester and your meter before opening anything. - Pull the locking 3‑blade receptacle and verify the cable: if it’s only 2‑wire with ground feeding a single‑pole 30‑amp breaker, re‑terminate to a TT‑30R 120‑volt RV receptacle instead of that locking 240‑style device. - Make sure the hot, neutral, and ground are correctly landed on the TT‑30R per markings, torque to spec, and re‑test voltages and polarity before putting the site back into service. - If you actually have/need 240 V there for something else, keep it separate and clearly labeled, and add a dedicated 120‑V RV circuit/receptacle for RV use so nobody is tempted to adapt a 240‑V outlet. Given what you’re seeing and how rough that plug looks, I’d treat everything related to that particular outlet/cord as suspect until it’s rewired as a proper TT‑30 and the guest is on a fresh, good connector. Do you want to standardize that pedestal to a normal 30‑amp RV TT‑30 only, or are you trying to keep 240 V capability there as well?

Brook said it is fine and probably their plug. It is not repeatable. I will tell customer to change their plug.